Since my last blog post, the guys and I drove west from Murchison to the coast, and spent 2 nights camping on the beaches near Hokitika and south of Franz Josef and Fox Glaciers. Josh and Sky had only another week to explore a bit of the south again, so this was a bit of a lightning run to the area south of Queenstown for some quick trips before they fly home.
Camping in un-designated camp areas (parking lots, sand dunes), AKA freedom camping, is not exactly legal in this country, and we have not done much of it. However, there are times when a guy just has to have some bonfires on a beach and sleep in the sand, and we really just had to bend the rules a bit and be discreet about it.
On our way south down the coast, we made the short unguided hike to the terminal face of Franz Josef Glacier. On the hike in we passed a plaque that showed the first photo taken of Franz Josef Glacier, and it took us 25 minutes to walk from the nineteenth century terminus of the glacier to where it is now. I'm pretty curious about the terrain east of this coastal region, which is quite mountainous (home to Mt. Cook), and I would like to check it out when I head north again eventually.
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Near the terminal face of Franz Josef glacier |
The first night on the beach we played Frisbee until dark, and then made beer can burgers in the embers of our fire. To make a beer can burger, you'll need a couple of beers, some burger meat, onions, salt, and seasoning. Then drink 3/4 of the beer, fill the rest of the can with meat and onions, and put in the fire for 5 to 10 minutes. Finally, cut the top of the can off and dump contents onto a hamburger bun. It probably instills some horrible toxin from the aluminum into the food, but it's tasty.
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Somewhere on the South Island's West Coast |
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Making friends on the beach |
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Beer can burgers |
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Checking a deep country spring creek for browns |
The second night camping on the beach was one of the most memorable fishing experiences of my life. Josh had known about the kahawai fishery (a big-ocean, strong cousin of tuna and jacks) near the mouths of some of the rivers here, and we decided to check it out. To be honest, I didn't think we would catch anything, but after rigging up Josh quickly hooked and lost a nice fish in the nervous water between the river delta and the incoming surf. He started screaming for me to run over, I obliged, and hooked another fish on my first cast.
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Second night camping on the coast |
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Josh walking in |
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One of my most unforgettable experiences yet |
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Bringing in some dinner |
We could see these fish tailing everywhere, and they were willing to eat just about anything. For an hour and a half, we had many doubles and triples (multiple fish on at a time), and we each got a fish for dinner to cook in our fire wrapped in foil. The fishing (..catching) was so good, I even got one on a surface popper meant for dorado in Baja Mexico.
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Our quarry |
We fished until dark and then rinsed off in the river so we didn't have that scratchy, uncomfortable feel of dried saltwater on our clothes. The kahawai was a bit chewy, but we each had our fill and went to bed. In the morning, we drove on to the town of Wanaka, which is a lot like a small Queenstown (camera was dead, so no pictures now. I'll probably go back).
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